What is a new Russian cuisine?
I can not say, I do not fond of the national ideology. I am not fond of Russian cuisine, although this topic is now very popular.
Why do you not be interested?
Not mine, I am preparing another food. I love to take the simplest and cheap products and make something that no one does. Gastronomic food. Gastronomic food for me is what you can't cook at home, something memorable, which I like. That's what's interesting to me. And following the national idea - no.
You often use sub-products - calf brains, such as or pork head. It was not scary to enter such a menu?
No, not scary. Each product deserves what to be cooked. People want tasty food And they want to understand that they have in a plate. For some, the product name may be unacceptable, but we look forward to the public more or less prepared and ready for experiments. We eat the same calf brains, although by the title it is hardly possible to assume. Many try this, probably for the first time. That was the idea! People usually do not eat offal, but not so much because they do not like how much because the cooks are rarely prepared. Sub-products are not considered a commercial product, they are difficult to sell. And we have shown that you can.
Very bold idea. The restaurant is still a business, he must profit. And chefs have to balance between their fantasies and tastes of people, what is for sale.
In my case, you have to balancing with your, so to speak, ambitions. I seem to happen. The main thing is that the person gets delicious food, and the cabbage is or fua-gra - it is already no matter. I will say more: the cabbage causes emotions, because to cook it delicious, firstly, more difficult, secondly, it is remembered. Taste fua-gra - it is just a taste of fua-gras, and taste roasted cabbage - It is strange and unusual.
And what is the balance with ambitions?
In the choice of products that I as a cook is more interesting. I hope and guests. You can cook Ribe, but the serve gland is more interesting! Much!
Why did you become a cook?
I wanted.
And all? No romance?
No, absolutely no.
And at what point did you understand that the cook case for you was something big than just work?
When the understanding came to me that this is a field for creativity. Once I realized that I knew a little more than I knew before. It turned out that I can and I want to cook something else, not what I did before.
Why did you decide to open your own project -Duo?
I ceased to arrange the vision of other people. I am a very selfish person, I think that there are two opinions - my and wrong. And because of this I had to open a restaurant, where everything was done as I think necessary. I wanted to make an interesting non-trivial food, affordable for many segments of the population, without composing them in the size of the wallet. Prices for dishes in Duo and Tartarbar still do not exceed 500 rubles. The highest price in Duo, for example, 490 rubles.
What is the secret of success? Why did this place immediately shot?
You will not like my answer, it is not suitable for your journalistic environment. We just have delicious. No restaurant in the world will tell you, you know about it. Imagine: we have tasteless, but the interior is beautiful. Or: tasty, but the service is bad. So, we have tasty, and I believe that 90% of our success is what we have tasty. As for all the rest, it is difficult to explain and long. At the right time opened, the correct truths preached, which many were now adopted, by the way.
Correct - what are these? Feed tasty?
This is the truth for many restaurants. No one opens to feed tastefully.
You can die differently delicious. Someone emphasizes on aesthetics, atmosphere, someone - on an unusual feed, someone bets on the fact that a person disassembles a dish like a puzzle.
Even Mishlenian restaurants are discovered in order to be delicious. And sometimes interesting.
What are the stylistics restaurants close?
Gastropaby, gastrobistrent. A little French such when people refuse restaurants with gold appliances and open modest places with high-level meal. Although I like and restaurants high kitchenBut I'm not ready to open such a place or walk there.
What do you think about high-profile statements like "let's do with Russian cuisine the same thing that the Scandinavians or Peruvians did with their"?
At the beginning of our conversation, I said that ideology is not for me. I do the food that I like. But this idea is in the air and is connected with the right, respectful approach to products, and both to premium and normal. With the desire of these things to make interesting delicious dishes. That is, cook not soup, but something else. If you take my restaurants, then yes, the products are Russians, the cook Russian, the techniques are different, mostly classic. It turns out a new Russian cuisine. But I never imagine a follower of such ideology. I have no ideas to lead the movement of the Russian people. Let the khorugpenos be the other, Volodya Mukhin, for example.
How do you come up with your food?
Something itself comes to mind, something has to tweer for months. Sometimes it is impossible to finish. Yesterday I talked about the phone about Ikra and came up with her dish, and before that, two weeks could not write anything. The bone marrow I tried to cook tasty for two years and could not, I didn't like everything. And now it is one of my favorite products.
How to look for a balance between your ideas and opinions of the public?
I would like the public to agree with my opinion and shared it. For me it is more important than trying to adapt to tastes and the ephemeral opinion of the public unknown to me. Now I know many guests who come to me in a restaurant. But on average, when you open, you do not know who will come. Trying to guess their tastes - no chance. And what is the point for me to prepare the food that I do not like, trying to keep up with commercial success? It is more important for me to make your meal and make it commercially successful.
Happened, some dishes were not sold?
Yes, pork head, for example. Do not eat it.
So what?
Renamed. Now eat.
What did they rename?
In a severity of a pig.
Is everything so easy?
Well, not everything is so simple. So I do it from pork head, he is not eaten. How to sell it? For me, nothing has changed from changing the name, but for the public, probably yes.
Duo.orTartarbar.can you become networks?
I am interested in developing a business, but by creating different formats, something new.
Duo Asia -is it just so new?
By the name everything is clear. Our view of the kitchen with an Asian tint. Food is not authentic in any way, in Asia, no one was. We stumbled Mexican, Peruvian, Chinese, japanese cuisines. They took the tastes that we like. It would be strange to realize them as part of another restaurant - I can't put Bao or Taco in Tartarbar. And I like this food.
You said that you are mainly using traditional techniques. And what about molecular?
Molecular cuisine, in my opinion, not a trend for a long time. Now, no one is engaged. In our society, the use of molecular technician has acquired some meaningless and merciless character. I do not like it. I use some of these techniques, but in the event that I need it for a specific result, and not just like that. Su-kind, for example, I use. But to cook in it all in a row, including beef cutting, is idiocy. Everyone needs to be treated, first, with attention, secondly, with understanding, for which you do it, with thought. And how were we? We used some technique, only to write on the menu: "Beef with fermented beans and sea buckthorn juice." Eat - tasteless, no one with another is combined. It turns out just a set of technicians who posted in a plate; Sometimes beautiful, but sometimes ugly.
And how do you scandinava?
And I like the scandinavis. Just their food, let's say it is colder than what we cook. They play on thinner tastes, complex, dense, in their food need to be thought out. But I open restaurants for people who come to eat, and not to boast of colleagues, as I was interested in growing moss in the kitchen, he was fermented so many years, and here I got a moss with a taste of the skilled gland. Americans, by the way, do I like. I as a professional is interesting to me, it is delicious, verified. Another thing is that we have much copy, and quite thoughtlessly.
In form?
Well yes. Read books, drive in internships, and then prepare the same thing. And the essence does not fill.
Who is interested in Russian chefs?
Large names. They are united by the fact that they are not focused on the fashion, but taste.
In which direction will our market develop?
In the right. I like the tendency that I watch in Moscow and St. Petersburg, I can not say anything about the regions, it is rare there. We have and continue to appear restaurants, decent stars. I recently returned from Copenhagen - so our restaurants are not inferior to Copenhagen, and some won! For example, there can be plates with chips in the restaurant with stars, do not remove the crumbs from the table. We are so impossible, guests will be outraged. Aesthetic pleasure is an important part of the hike in the restaurant. Maybe in Italy people will go eat very delicious pasta In the ugly eatery, but in Russia it is impossible. I believe that it is good, when the food, and the interior, and the service is all at the height.
Do our restaurants have a chance to enter world ratings? More than they are present there now.
Not directly in the top ten, like Peruvians or Americans, but suspect that in a few years the Russian names in the ratings will be more.
Due to what?
Our restaurants really become largely better than European. The fact that our bloggers love to compile free water and superservice in Europe and compose to domestic restaurants - it is, to put it mildly, in vain. Service in many of our restaurants is significantly higher than in European. We are not talking about restaurants with three Michelin stars, of course. This is generally another world, there is no need to compare. And to take restaurants with one star - so in some of our restaurants the food is more interesting. You see, we have a cook, and the restaurants are hungry yet, greedy before doing something. For five years, there has been a significant jump in the development of restaurants and in the principle of restaurant culture. It is good because we were somewhere on the bottom for a long time. We started quickly tightening enough. Watch out the trends that do not go behind. Boom on the organic, which covered Europe, and in Russia for a long time, for example. Another thing is that we are talking about two cities with you now. And Russia is not only Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Why did this jump occurred, what do you think?
Five years ago it was quite sad. There were restaurants in which the food differed little from food in other places. There was a million Italian establishments. And now there is a large selection of different and delicious food. The profession of cook has become popular. Rapidly! Now everyone knows the name of the chefs. Choose to which one to go. The chefs began to open their restaurants, and five years ago there was no such thing. We opened Duo in 2014 and worked in the hall together with Renat; It is now important for guests, and then yes. It's one thing when you come to someone unknown or, okay, known, but to the one who never comes to you. And here live people, young guys who took and opened the restaurant themselves, work themselves, try to truly. This is a normal, logical and correct way of development. Chefs who want and can do their own becomes more and more. Investors who are ready to trust them, too, saw that such a model works. Previously, invest in the author's cuisine was a failed business. Those who started with her ended in Chebureca, relatively speaking. And now it is not scary - on the contrary, it is interesting.
Did you have an investor in 2014? How did you find it?
It was my friend and partner, it was he who persuaded me to make a restaurant. Well, imagine I was a 27-year-old chief. I had no idea how to make restaurants. But approximately, then I realized that I could not, I am not ready to work with anyone. And the only way out is to make a restaurant yourself. It can be said that we all were lucky then, the circumstances were well.
As a former loader became the most famous chef of the Northern Capital and achieved success.
Dmitry Blinov
Dmitry Blinov is a talented chef of St. Petersburg, brand chief and co-owner of three successful restaurants at once: Duo, Duo Asia and Tartarbar, marked by various respected gastronomic prizes. The chef gave "geography of taste. St. Petersburg "Frank interviews about yourself and how created his projects.
"I was born in St. Petersburg in 1986. At 17, I got into the kitchen, and before that I worked as a loader at the Moscow railway station, wearing products in restaurants. I studied in PTU at the cook. Well, it can be said that he did not study almost, because most of the time worked. Then the cook, from that restaurant where I delivered the products, offered me to go to work for them into the kitchen. They say they say, come, there is a salary for 3,000 rubles more and warm warm. And I agreed. In those days, the restaurant business was completely different. It was 2004, learn gastronomy was not anyone. Good chefs There was no in St. Petersburg either. Then everything was only born and the first gastronomic restaurants only began to appear. There did not work out there, because there was one strict rule, with which I did not want to put up - the work schedule is two through two and more of any other work. I needed money, so to afford the luxury to earn only in one place, I could not. At 22, I realized that in St. Petersburg there are no chefs from whom you can learn, so I had to study independently - books, Internet. And if so, why should I, working as a cook, receive 17,000 rubles, when you can work a chef and have 40,000. And I began to "climb up" by ... "blackmail".
Restaurant Dou Asia. Sashimi from Tuna with Vasabi (390 rubles.), Sevs from tomatoes in spicy broth (290 rubles), Beef Tataki with Kimchi (450 rubles)
I quit from one restaurant, came to another, and at this time there were some restructuring. The case was in front of the restaurant season and they were needed by people who know how to cook well. I looked at it and said: "No, I will not work as a chef here. Well, except with Su-Chief. " The whole range of duties of Su-Chef for me was the secret, I did not know at all what I'm talking about. Well, as you understand - they agreed. Three years later, there was about the same situation, only now I methyl to the post of chef. In a new post, I worked for five years. There were people who offered me to make your restaurant. It was scary, but in the end at the age of 27 I understood that I was ready. Ready to start working in this direction. Because to work with someone, under whose leadership and not be able to influence everything that happens in the hall - I did not like. So, in January 2014, risking, we opened the Duo restaurant. There I ran into another problem - managerial. Now I have no one to yell, but it was necessary to solve everything myself.
Part of Duo Gastrobar Team
Renat Malikov. I have a friend, part-time partner of the Duo restaurant, his name is Renat Malikov. We together opened this place, and since they worked in the kitchen together, therefore, they called Duo's tour. That is, they worked together in the literal sense! In addition to us there was still one waiter. We found a room 78 m2 and a clear thing is that a large number of personnel did not assume here. The kitchen was divided so that the hot shop was located in the distance and was hidden, and the cold workshop was put in the hall, because it was necessary and prepare, and to meet guests, and at the same time to work as a waiter. After three months of the work of the restaurant, we still started hiring staff, because I was already close to kill someone. And since Renata was impossible to kill, they began to hire people. Hired staff cost these costs!
Restaurant Duo Asia. Motion with forest berries (350 rubles), pumpkin mousse with lime
Business plan. What are we talking about? The whole business plan was in my notes in the iPhone. Everything turned out somehow contrary to. I did not like that in all other restaurants too expensive, therefore, if there is an extraction of 400% everywhere (and smart books teach us - the minimum surveillance should be 300%), then in our restaurant it was about 170%. Of course, after the crisis, everything changed, and we did not change prices. We changed the vector, began to think how to make meals remain tasty and high-quality, but became cheaper in procurement. I did not like that in previous areas of work, people sat in the jackets in the restaurant and we all voluntarily forcibly asked to remove the upper clothes. In principle, there must be a culture of food. Located in a restaurant? Please remove the upper clothes. A simple rule of decency and respect for the place where you came.
Probably, it can be said that the overall picture of the restaurant's concept was in my head when we saw this room.
Restaurant Duo Gastrobar. Dessert " Chocolate Ganash. With black currant "
Duo.. We wanted to make a place where people who want to eat tasty, which are not like what exactly they put themselves in her mouth, could do it, coming to us in Duo for understandable money. Tasty, inexpensive, high quality. Here, probably, the three main rules that we try to adhere to our work. DUO project format - Gastrobar. It is funny, but with a similar format I only met recently - I went to Paris, Denmark ... I visited the establishment of such such a kind when the chefs open a small restaurant, a tour of himself, not particularly bothering with the interior, service, and concentrating on food.
And before that, I only heard about this format, but also as a result successfully implemented.
Menu. In the menu, we put what I wanted to cook before, what I was banned in other places, due to the cost or something else, and here I had the opportunity to do what I want. Flight fancy! It was 3-4 dishes that I took from the restaurant's menu, in which I worked before, but it was a controversial moment, because of which we then communicated a lot ... Since it was me invented dishes and I did not understand why I can't take and make them in their restaurant?! I am not to blame that in that restaurant, where I used to work, with the arrival of a new chef, they did not withdraw them from the menu. I really like cooking vegetables. Vegetables as the main product is very cool. There you and a variety and cost, the ability to try several positions, well, and of course the benefits. If you are the first time in Duo, you need to try our dishes, which in the menu from the first days - stew from duck (390 rubles), scallops with Grech (490 rubles) and Tuna Sevice (390 rubles).
Restaurant Duo Gastrobar. Scallops with Grech and Smoked duck breast (490 rubles)
Our guests. A huge difference between today's day and what was 5 years ago. First, our guests disassembled that they eat, which it costs and what quality product. They are interested in experimenting with it at all. In general, we have a grateful and educated public with a good attitude towards what we do.
Tartarbar.. When the next Tartarbar restaurant opened, it was December 28, 2015, we closed Duo for reconstruction. At first, they wanted to remake only the kitchen, and when they started, they realized that it would be good to fully update the room. Alexey Penyuk answered the design of all our restaurants. First, the idea was born to make a small bar where only Tartars would be served, that is, all raw meat, fish. And the name immediately appeared in the head Tartarbar, sounds good, right? In my opinion, it could not be more suitable. But thinking about this idea, I realized that it was impossible to commercially to make such a project. Who will eat tartars in winter?. We still live in St. Petersburg, do not forget. Here in the winter - 20 is felt like -40. Therefore, I decided to add the menu to the size of the restaurant, taking the diversity of offal, in my opinion, undervalued by Russian chefs. Including because no one is preparing this because of the concerns to be unclaimed. I love this - to do contrary to the other, reasonable ideas. Some provocation.
W. Dmitry Blinov To date, three restaurants in St. Petersburg - Duo, Tartarbar, Duo.asia. Without armor, you will not sit down, the stay of the guest is limited, it is impossible in the upper clothes in the hall, there are no banquets, children's menu No, there are no salaries for waiters ... Chief editor of the "Restaurant Vedomosti" Elena Anosov I tried to understand the phenomenon of the restaurant and the chef, who does not look like anyone.
How much do you want to open restaurants?
I will not open restaurants just in order to open restaurants. And how much ideas will appear and how much it turns out to be implemented, I do not know.
What criteria are selecting the team?
The main criterion is the desire to work. And if you develop a thought, then it is important - and the attitude to work, and cleanness, and speed. We had to part with the staff, quite good, responsible who did not know how to work quickly. And no matter how we taught them, they could not turn themselves faster. Just there are people in nature are slow, but there are nimble.
Why can I drive a guest?
If we generalize, then for disrespect for the place where it came.
Why do you not have pets in restaurants?
Sanpin, as far as I know, it is not provided for petting pets in catering facilities. Secondly, restaurants exist in order to eat in them, and did not spend their dogs and cats.
Do you have animals at home?
Mom and sisters have a dog. I am normally relating to animals. I will give a comparison. I have a little son, he is three years old, but there are no children's chairs in my restaurants, there is no children's menu. If we want to achieve results and do good restaurants, I have to do good restaurants without being distracted by children's chairs, special menus, pets. If we allow one guest to come with a small dog, which will sit on a chair, then why should we ban another guest to come with a dog that will just scare those surrounding? Or do we have to come up with a rule, what size in the withers should there be a dog so that we will let it? Well, it is nonsense, some kind of alone and infringement of others. Double standards are killed in restaurants most of all, when one guests can be alone, and others can not be.You do not have any weddings nor banquets. Why?
We work for people who go to us, many every day. If we close a wedding or corporate holiday, it means that our guests will not be able to get to the restaurant on this day. It turns out, we limit them, because we decided to earn more money. In my opinion, it is wrong.
What do you dislike about your restaurants?
There's no such thing. Just joking, you need to think. Always do not like something. But it is rather my critical look. Food dislike, service does not like ...
When not to give tips?
Frankly, my goal is to understand what the difference from other chefs. Why such a large number of people fell in love with his kitchen? How do you think (if you drop false modesty)?
The question is not what a cook you are, but rather in what politics you spend. I already physically do not have time to prepare fully in all my restaurants. To change the menu in, I now need a full week. And, for example, in I was engaged in the menu only at the discovery stage - the first month or two something was cut there. There is the Chef Evgeny Yugai, this is his area of \u200b\u200bresponsibility. Once Evgeny was one of the first chefs we took to work in. And since we worked for a long time together, the restaurant's stylistics still remains the same. As a result, solid advantages: on the one hand, my hands are unleashed, and on the other, there is a person who satisfies his ambitions (and that's good). If I once gave to satisfy all my ambitions, this would not happen.
That is, if you once did not climb a creative initiative, Duo Gastrobar and everything else would not happen?
Of course. Just everything works! When you don't give something to do, and you really want it, you find such risky exits from the waters, realizing that you need to change something. And if you just have in greenhouse conditions, you have everything, you have a good salary, you can do what you want, what are the incentives here!
Still, about differences ...
Of course, there is a bunch of factors that I have in my head and which I sometimes can not even explain. Not only the pricing and the service that I consider correctly, but, for example, even how the names of the dishes are written. It really affects the result - they want to buy a dish or not. Therefore, when we make a dish, I can rename it several times so that the name smoothly lay in my mind. The combination of sounds and words should acquire the completed formulation. For example, now we have an incredibly simple dish in the menu: we are preparing minced bolognese, only with Chorizo, and make slices from Celery, fry them on the grill and put the mince. It was possible to call all this "mince with celery", and we called "Lazagna from Celery with Chorizo."
You have become the second Russian chef, who performed on Madrid Fusion - the Main World Gastronomic Congress. And they presented there a set of pork heads. It seems to me how to cook a pork head - I don't care what to cut Bloku. There is no practical benefit because there will be it anyway will not be.
But I almost put it on the menu. In places only changed the name. Why did I choose a pork head? Nobody wants to work with her! And I wanted to show that it is possible to work absolutely with all the products - regardless of their intensity, popularity, calorie and utility. And I decided to make a whole dinner, an interesting task from one none of the necessary pork head. It turned out six dishes, including dessert - pork leather, blown up in boiling oil like popcorn, with sweet cream from young cheese, salted caramel and prunes. Another thing is that there is no economic benefit. Buy pork heads You can only on the market, and since they do not need anyone, then you have to order. You do not want to bring for a snot, sell 100 rubles per kilogram. As a result, the head costs 500-800 rubles, ready meat at the exit - 600 grams. Paradox: You seem to use the products that throw out, spend on cooking 12 hours, and then it turns out that you can buy cutout for the same money.
Evil languages \u200b\u200bsay that the success of your restaurants is due to the use of a taste amplifier - Sodium glutamate. Do you have bags in stock?
You can watch how much you like! I do not use it, but it is difficult to prove someone. But well, OK, let's say, my secret is glutamate sodium, it enhances the taste, but if the taste is shit, then it enhances the taste of shit! People who do not know how or do not want to work and cook, are looking for a reason not in themselves, but in someone else. When we opened Duo Gastrobar, it was difficult for me, because I was looking for an enemy all the time - I didn't like something all the time on all previous places. Or someone. Manager, cleaner - no matter. And then there was a problem that I had no one to express my indignation: all problems in you. And I continue to adhere to this logic. But the logic is all different. And she leads to the conclusion: if it is tastier here than I have, then not because I'm bad, but because the pancakes puts glutamate. But once again I will say: I do not use and I will not use glutamate or some powders. Even if no one ever learns about it. I just have my own internal code that does not allow it to do. Everyone has its own code. Someone cannot kill a person, and someone can. For example, I can not copy someone's dishes, even if I really liked it. Otherwise, it will be uncomfortable to look into the eyes.
If I remember correctly, Duo Gastrobar cost 4 million rubles. Restaurant with an area of \u200b\u200b78 m2 paid off in 5.5 months. What was written in your business plan?
Nothing! The only thing I did is calculated the minimum necessary revenue to go on payback. It was 18 thousand or 22 thousand rubles a day. There were no staff, we burned a little electricity, the rent was kept. I expected on turnover of 30 thousand rubles a day - so that the month was 900 thousand revenues. In this case, according to my calculations, we had to earn approximately 150 thousand rubles per month. For everyone. It is less than my salary at the time of leaving the last restaurant.
It turns out, did you expect to earn 1500 rubles from one place for the evening?
The scallops cost 320 rubles, hot - the maximum 450. More than 1 thousand. It was very difficult to eat, or rather, almost impossible. I have read the books in which it was written: the restaurant existed, you need at least 1-1.5 landing per day. We have 20 seats (plus four behind the bar, but we did not understand whether they would sit there). Moved and got that we need the same 30 thousand per day.
Not for the sake of money everything was stood!
And continues not for the sake of money! Then I was 27 years old. We looked at: the wife has a salary of 40 thousand, I will probably have 50 thousand - nothing, somehow live. I would go now in such a va-bank, I do not even know.
How is your business model built? Restaurant groups usually find an investor, build a place, take it into management and get part of the profits ...
The model is approximately similar. We with Renat (Renat Malikov - a cook, together with which the pancakes opened all its projects. - Ed.) There is a third partner who invested in Duo Gastrobar, and in Tartarbar, and in Duo Asia.
Whatever they talked about restaurants, they still do not bring so much money so that the second can be discovered on profit from one project. This is too a surreal situation! Perhaps on one restaurant - Duo Gastrobar, be a little cunning and smarter, I would have found loans somewhere, but why if we have a partner that comes with your money.
You have the rules in your restaurants. What do guests are annoying: ban on fur coats in the hall or restriction of stay?
Everyone has their own difficulties with perception. We have not accustomed to us that they impose some rules. Moreover, the phrase "client is always right" is the most important and most first. There are those who call and swears on the phone: on what grounds you prohibit. There were even judicial claims - they applied to the court that we did not let someone. It is strange for me, because there are quite understandable terms of the transaction: we suggest to visit our restaurant, eat that we give, and drink that we are pouring, and at the same time we try to make the stay of each guest as comfortable as possible. The visitor does not have to be in the jacket. And rule 2 hours? At lunch, you are unlikely to sit longer, and in the evening this stream and everything is booked. Therefore, sometimes you have to say: I will have to refuse you. Someone else annoys it, someone less. We have a completely different flight guests: there are billionaires, and there are students.
Conditional Abramovich had to be limited in the time of stay?
Now I will clarify ... you asked because you knew? Yes, Abramovich was also. For some reason, everyone always suits such guests. But the middle hand director shouts: you do not know who you are talking to.
Now everyone thinks about health. Magic words "farmer" and "bio" still act?
They always annoy me. They are, but I do not know them. Smoothie, Chia ... I can not stand. That year for some reason Keyl was useful product, and that is exactly Chia. How Keyl per year lost all his trace elements, and Chia scored - I do not understand! I am not a fan of speculation. Chia will not have. This is some kind of mucus, I do not understand what the essence is.
In theory, people should come to you with the words: Let's open "Tartarbar" in Moscow?
Offer. But we answer that we do not plan to open in Moscow yet. The format is worked out, it is possible in St. Petersburg three more "Tartarbar" to open, and Duo Asia is generally six. And they all will work, but it is boring. Maybe when I will be 50 years old, I will stamp projects, but for now I have enough ideas, thoughts and energy do different things. Stamp projects from the point of view of business is cool, and in terms of development it is not interesting to me. If you find a room for Duo Asia, I can organize a new project for 3 days, I have a lot of prepared personnel, there is a Su-Chef, the chef will not distinguish the first of the second level of the quality of the service. But there is no buzz in this. Kayf - when invented and realize something. Regarding Duo Asia it is difficult to say that I did something new, because at this moment three or four restaurants opened with pseudo-suite food. It's a shame, because we conceived him, when Tartarbar was opened. The idea was already, I even went to watch the room - there is now a tour "tour". But then he did not remember this six months, because it was necessary to set up a job in Tartarbar, then the search for a new premises is six months old, the construction of 9 months. As a result, everything was delayed for 2 years. On the other hand, satisfied with the result: it turned out that I had in my head, - an Asian restaurant without sticks, dragons, geyshe and red.
You must have a good idea what to like to Russian consumers. How can I describe the Russian taste how can you describe?
I'm afraid to speak for the whole of Russia. I would not risk opening none of my restaurants on the street. Dybenko, not to mention some small town. We are really bright, saturated tastes, many sauces, followers of Scandinavian cuisine do not appreciate my kitchen - for them it is too accessible and understandable. And I do not appreciate the philosophy of Scandinavian cuisine: the details of searching for the aroma of cucumber in the spruce, and in the spruce of the cucumber. I love garlic, onions, salt, sugar, brandy, butter - that's all this. But how to talk for everyone if only a narrow interlayer of consumers walks in restaurants! We are, though a democratic restaurant, but for the most part there are people who have great gastronomic experience. So I have never been to Zuma in New York, and guests come to us every day, which are compared, worse with us or better than in this very fashionable Asian restaurant of New York. As a result, I can roughly imagine the prepared consumer from Moscow and St. Petersburg, but it will be a conversation about 0.4% of the country's population.
Then the most ambitious task is to open the institution as low as possible, but at the same time gastronomic?
There are some thoughts about the conditional super-quality streetfood, but so far only thoughts. The overall idea is to become even more affordable, but in the format of the restaurant it is impossible to do even cheaper than Duo. At least I can not imagine. To do this, you need to enjoy either products or something else. We have a small rent, but we use good products. We employ many professionals (cooks, waiters), and they earn well - this is our small contribution to the development of the restaurant business. Cooks should be able to go to the restaurant. And if the chef has a salary of 1.8-2 thousand rubles per shift, then, even if it works 20 days a month from morning to night, it will be impossible.
My son eats everything in a row now: both sushi, and beans, and spinach. At the same time, he almost does not eat sausages, pasta, potatoes fr. This is the merit of his mother, sometimes I will bring something from work. I hope that he will initially treat food respectful, there will be no bad meal. But how much can I grow such people?
Five man ...
On the scale of the country, it's like nothing! And if you make an affordable food with a qualitatively different format, then after some time, students will not walk in bad restaurants, because they will be tasteless there. By this time, I hope, we will cover the wave of young chefs, which are picked by democratic restaurants, and the market will change efficiently.
The era of import substitution is more than 3 years. Have you learned something wonderful to do?
Not bad learned to transport seafood: fish, squid, scallop ... Another thing is that it is still not suiced: our scallop costs mad money. 3800 rubles for 1 kg are twice as expensive than 4 years ago it was possible to buy French. This scallop then cost 1,800 rubles, but I could not allow him then to afford, so I bought a good American for 800. And now Russian - 3800! 5 kg scallop - almost 20 thousand rubles!
I was now in Spain, there are such products - mad, but looking at how they work in the restaurant, I can say that they do not appreciate what is. We went to the usual grocery store, bought Shiitake for 6 euros. Here I'm a teeth, so that I will bring Normal Shiitake: not Chinese, which are smelted by gasoline, and normal, fresh, good. I pay 1200 rubles, that is, 18 euros. They are brought to me 2 times a week and every time a little less than I want. Because as much as I want, no. And there the tray from the store stands on the street.
New Russian cuisine is a stamp, fact or myth?
This is a stamp. But it is necessary to somehow call everything that happens! I myself am not a fan of all this gastropatriotism, but the same kitchen is not French, not Italian and not European! We use Russian products, our others are simply physically not. In the root of Russian taste, so I was in Spain on dinner, where the Russians and Spaniards were prepared. We have our own stamps - borsch and herring, and they have their own, for example, an omelet with potatoes. It is not clear to us why there is this. And they are incomprehensible to borsch and herring. Yes, and in fact, in fact it is a story - the kitchen Soviet, imperial ... And I also studied badly!
Why are so many empty, unsuccessful restaurant projects?
Provocative question! The main thing is the lack of a concept. People do not fully understand what they want. The man came to the restaurant, because he liked the sushi, and the other day there was already Lulle-kebab. That is, an attempt to please both the other.
Very often the story when a person has money and he wants to invent the restaurant. I have friends-comrades familiar who say: "Dimon, you have everything so good, let us in line and let you open something." People do not understand anything, but they consider the restaurant business profitable - you sell beets for 300 rubles. No one takes into account that such proposals in the city of 6 thousand.
How many restaurants in St. Petersburg, who make revenue over a million dollars a month?
Units - literally four or five. In Moscow, their significantly more. I know the indicators of many successful restaurants, and this is not at all such numbers.
Are you far from them?
Of course. Even thoughts were not. It turns out, you need to earn 2 million per day. Our largest restaurant is Duo Asia, it has 60 seats. Everything can be calculated. 2 million divided by 60. It turns out 33 thousand rubles from the chair. That is, it is necessary that every 2 hours a guest changed and each of them ate by 6 thousand rubles or ate per thousand and ordered a bottle for 5 thousand. Rather, he took with him, because not much to drink so much. Judge: if the table is on four, these are four bottles of wine. And so every day! I would certainly not refuse, but I don't even know what to sell for this!
How do you choose a restaurant when you come to another city?
I look at the recommendations, and then "instagram" to understand how it looks at all. Live photographs of people who photographed food, as a rule, do not deceive. On the site one, in the "Instagram" other. An intuitive understanding arises: I like it, it's delicious to me or not.
Almost all cooks say that they are not prepared at home. What lately did you cook at home?
Not at home! We went beyond the city a month or two ago, Zucchini with yogurt and cottage cheese did on the mangale. And so uncomfortable at home. Little board, small table. I can not! It is easier for me to bring food in a container from the restaurant. Yourself to buy yourself.
You repeatedly told you that you are inherent, let's say, the power method of manual. When was the last time you had to apply it?
Physical violence? The last time aggressive style was used when Duo Asia was launched. It is impossible to behave constantly, but at the time of discovery in the restaurant the atmosphere is so rolling that sometimes I can't hold myself. Although now I am calmer compared to what was 3-4 years ago, do not compare at all. If then we opened Duo Asia, I would probably be planted. Once in Duo Gastrobar redose walls. Me broken. At the same time, I have a valid relationship with staff. Everyone has an understanding of the permitted. I can also go into the kitchen in my kitchen, and on the ass, if necessary. But everything is adequate, not tormenting anyone from bad mood. But I, so let's say, not Milash in the kitchen.
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